【夏洛蒂●勃朗特姐妹故乡行】

A walk in Bronte country

【夏洛蒂●勃朗特姐妹故乡行】

照片一: 夏洛蒂●勃朗特姐妹故乡--霍沃斯荒原
照片二: 勃朗特牧师博物馆

HAWORTH, ENGLAND—“Reader, I married him.”
霍沃斯，英格兰-----“读书人，我嫁给了他。“

16/02/11 14:32In one of literature’s great lines, plain Jane Eyre announces her change of status. We cheer. Stashing his mad wife in the attic—an ill-advised move—caused wealthy Mr. Rochester to lose Jane. Widowed, hurt, contrite—but still sexy—Rochester now makes excellent husband material for our feisty heroine. An immediate hit when it was published in 1847, Jane Eyre ranks among the great English novels: the 16th movie based on Charlotte Bronte’s classic premieres this March.

以文学的非同寻常的词语中的一句话，平凡的”简爱”声称她的地位改变了。我们欢呼。把他的发疯的妻子藏匿在阁楼上---一种不明智的举动-----因而导致富裕的罗切斯特先生失去简。丧偶，受伤害，懊悔------但是仍然性感-------现在罗切斯特为我们争强好胜的女主角创作完美的丈夫的题材。当《简爱》在1847年出版时,马上引起轰动而一炮走红，《简爱》跻身于伟大英文小说的行列之中：第16次以夏洛蒂●勃朗特的经典之作为基础改编的电影今年三月首演。


《》In her lifetime, Charlotte Bronte often posed a bit of a mystery. Her London publisher was surprised to learn that his brilliant author was not in fact male—she and her sisters all used male pseudonyms—but the diminutive daughter of a village parson. Sisters Emily (“Wuthering Heights”) and Anne (“The Tenant of Wildfell Hall”) rapidly followed Charlotte’s success. How could a West Yorkshire village produce three siblings who wrote so vividly about passion?

在她的一生中，夏洛蒂●勃朗特常常提出一些不解之谜。她的伦敦出版商惊讶地得知他的才华超凡的作者其实不是男性-----她和她的妹妹们全部使用男性的笔名----她不过是一个村庄牧师的身材矮小的女儿。妹妹艾米丽的（“呼啸山庄“）和安妮的（“女房客“）紧接着夏洛蒂的成功之后也迅速地取得了成功。约克郡西部的一个村庄怎么会产生三个如此生动地满怀激情写作的姐妹？


To find out, fans make the pilgrimage to Haworth, a “strange uncivilized little place,” in Charlotte’s words. Although the Brontes’ childhood can sound fairytale-like—three motherless girls and one boy spinning tales in a parsonage close to the moors—the facts are brutal. Haworth’s water supply was foul, infections (TB especially) deadly and rife. Charlotte outlived her siblings, succumbing to fever, aged thirty-nine.

为了找到答案，崇拜者们纷纷去霍沃思，用夏洛特自己的话讲:去一个“很奇怪的远离文明世界的小地方“朝圣。虽然勃朗特姐妹童年生活听起来就像童话一样------出生在一个靠近荒原的牧师家中的三个母亲已去世的编造出童话故事的女孩和一个男孩----然而事实确是残酷的。 霍沃思的用水肮脏，传染疾病（尤其是肺结核病）是致命的和流行的。夏洛蒂比她的兄弟妹妹活得长，死于发烧，终年三十九岁。

Another sort of dread haunts today’s literary pilgrim: what if Haworth is a Bronteesque theme park? Reader, fear not. The steep, cobbled main street is lined with shops and lace-curtained houses. A few establishments borrow names from the books, but you’ll find a place the Brontës would definitely recognize.

另一种恐惧困扰着当今的文学朝圣者：什么,如果霍沃思是勃朗特式的主题公园？读者，也不用担心。沿着那条陡峭的，铺着鹅卵石的主要街道两旁都是商店和窗子上挂着镶有花边窗帘的房子。一些商店借用来自于作品中的名字，但你会发现这是一个勃朗特姐妹一定会认得的地方。

At the Old White Lion Inn, a 300-year-old coaching stop, rooms are smallish but nicely remodelled; some have storybook views of rolling green farmland. The resident ghost is “Shapely” Lily Cove, killed in an air show in 1906. (Ask for Room 7 if you’re interested.) Nearby, the Black Bull Pub—the dissolute Brontë brother’s local—continues to thrive.

在旧式白狮酒店里，一座300年历史的马车站，房间小巧的但很好地装修过，有些房间尚可看得见在小说书中所描述的起伏的绿色农田的景色。常驻的鬼魂是于1906年在航空展中丧生“窈窃身材的“莉莉●科维。 （如果你有兴趣,去7号房间询问。）在附近，有黑牛酒吧----放荡的勃朗特的弟弟的当地人------仍继续经营繁荣兴隆。


The Apothecary (now Rose&Co. Apothecary) where Branwell Bronte purchased laudanum (tincture of opium), is now a cosy emporium, offering retro souvenirs, homemade creams, soaps and candles handmade by Mrs. Rose and her daughter. A cat dozes away the afternoon atop an antique display case.

那里的”药剂师”药房（现在的罗斯与药剂公司）布兰韦尔●勃朗特曾从那里购买鸦片酊（鸦片剂），现在便成为一个舒适的商场，提供怀旧纪念品，自制乳剂膏，肥皂和罗斯女士和她的女儿手工制作的蜡烛。一只猫在一个古董展出柜顶上打盹中度过一下午。

There are rather a lot of cats. While snapping a photo of an ad for a “Clairvoyant Charity Evening for Cat Rescue,” I’m chatted up by a friendly building inspector. “You’re quite an attractive woman, what are you doing tonight?” If there is a theme here, it isn’t entirely literary.

这里有相当多的猫。在为一场“千里眼猫救助慈善晚会“拍摄一幅广告照片时，“一个表情友好的建筑大楼检查员与我闲聊了起来。 “你是一个十分有吸引力的女人，今晚你在做什么？“要是这里有一个主题的话，它完全不是文学上的。
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Exploring village teashops, pubs, or enjoying a meal at Weavers—a culinary gem where Emily’s ghost is rumoured to appear each December 19th—are all worthy pastimes. In Venables Book Shop, purveyors of rare and used books, vinyl records and literary ephemera, I purchased a “Bronte Country Walks” guide (1964). The gentleman behind the counter happily chats about jazz, literary tourism (still strong) and Haworth’s enduring appeal to Japanese visitors.

探索乡村茶馆，酒吧，或到被称之为一颗瑰丽的烹饪明珠韦弗斯去享受一餐饭------传说每年12月19日艾米莉的幽灵会出现在那里------这一切都是值得的消遣活动。在维纳布尔斯书店，提供珍稀旧书，唱片和文学上流行时间短暂的作品，我购买了 “勃朗特故乡自助游“导游书一本（1964年版）。柜台后面的彬彬有礼的绅士愉快地闲谈爵士音乐, 文学旅游（现在仍然很兴旺）以及霍沃思对日本游客的持久的魅力。


Although Rev. Patrick Bronte’s church needs repair (donations welcome), the parsonage (now the Bronte Parsonage Museum), is truly elegant. Highlights—besides artful Brontë-inspired exhibits—include Charlotte’s beribboned wedding hat, her set of pens, Emily’s bedroom, and the dining room where the children created their extravagant sagas, hand-written and illustrated in miniature books.

虽然帕特里克●勃朗特牧师的教堂需要维修（欢迎捐款），教区牧师住宅（现在是勃朗特牧师博物馆），真正地显得优雅。其最引人注目的部分------除了巧妙的灵感源自勃朗特风格的展品之外，其中还包括夏洛蒂的有飾緞帶的婚礼的帽子，她的一组钢笔，艾米莉的卧室，餐厅，在那里的孩子们创作了她们自己的奢侈的传奇故事，手写体和有插图的袖珍书籍。


Spookily, the parsonage faces the church graveyard, gloomy with tombstones; some are ten bodies deep. By evening—the perfect time for a Haworth ghost walk—rooks and bats fly overhead. Yet the path behind the house leads to the rapturous freedom of the moors

面临竖有墓碑的阴暗教堂墓地的牧师住宅显得阴森恐怖，有些墓地有十个人身体的深度。到了晚上-------对于霍沃思幽灵散步-----乌鸦和蝙蝠在头顶上方飞翔是一个绝好的时光。然而，房屋后面的小路通向令人心神激荡的自由的荒原.


Rather than linger over Yorkshire tea and scones, Bronte fans hike the path—13 kilometres round trip—to Top Withens, a ruin that, legend has it, inspired the house in Wuthering Heights. The reclusive Emily’s novel captures the haunted strangeness of her beloved moors. Our group followed a knowledgeable guide whose interests veered toward the geological: disused coal mines, the mid-Pennines (where we were standing), Bronze Age burial sites, the delta that existed here 300 million years ago.

不要仍留连不已约克郡的茶和烤饼，勃朗蒂的膜拜者远足步行小路-----13公里来回的旅程------前往威森斯山顶(这里被认为是《呼啸山庄》故事中的原型。),一片废墟，传说，它成为了艾米莉创作小说《呼啸山庄》的房子的灵感。离群索居的艾米莉的小说捕获住了她心爱的荒原被鬼魂萦绕的奇怪感觉。我们旅游团跟随知识渊博转而对地质感兴趣的导游：前往参观废弃的煤矿，奔宁山脉中段（我们曾站在那上面），青铜器时代墓葬遗址，3亿年前就存在这里的三角洲。


“Did you get lost on the moors?” asks a Toronto friend. How did she know? “It’s because you lose the horizon,” she laughed. Fifteen of us reached the stone ruin with its dramatic fir—the sole tree for miles. Dragging ourselves from the romantic hilltop, we notice we are ten hikers short. Someone (I’ll name no names, Sean) has taken charge and, like moorland sheep, we’ve followed him over fields of heather under a vast and moody sky.

“你是否在荒原走丢失了？“一位多伦多的朋友问我。她是怎么知道的？ “这是因为你失去了地平线“，她笑着说。我们中的十五人抵达了戏剧性地点缀着只有一棵枞树的岩石的废墟------数英里外的唯一棵树。我们从极富浪漫情调的山顶上拖着脚步走，我们注意到我们少了十个徒步旅行者。有人（我要取没有名字的名字，肖恩）已经受命负责，我们如像一群旷野中的羊，在一片广袤无限变化无常的天色中我们已经跟随他走过长着石楠属植物的田野。

Not to worry: Bronte Waterfall is well-signed (in English and Japanese) and a joyful group reunion there ensues. A torrent rushes down the hillside; the chair-shaped rock where the sisters liked to sit perches above the water. Charlotte and her husband walked here from the parsonage on a November afternoon in 1854. She loved it.

不用担心：勃朗特瀑布有书写清楚的标示牌介绍（用英语和日语），随之而来的是一场欢乐的小组团聚。一股激流从一个山坡上奔腾而下，勃朗特姐妹们喜欢坐在椅子形状的岩石上俯瞰水面。1854年十一月一天的一个下午夏洛蒂和她的丈夫从那牧师住宅散步走到这里。她很喜欢这里。

编译自: A walk in Bronte country by Nancy Wigston TORONTO STAR